Lower West Side, Battery Park City, Chelsea

     Today was one of the most beautiful walking days in the city. We began our journey at St. Paul's Chapel which is Manhattan's only colonial church still in existence (BB, p 77). This is of huge historic significance since St. Paul's has been in continuous operation since the time before the American Revolution.George Washington, our first President, prayed there after his inauguration at Federal Hall in 1789. This holy place is also a memorial for 911. An old elm tree shielded the chapel from destruction during the 911 disaster. A rendition of the root of this historic tree was cast in bronze by artist Steve Tobin and now stands on church grounds http://www.trinitywallstreet.org/news/features/the-trinity-root . This memorializes the fact that the chapel had minimal damage during the bitter episode. The faithful and frightened came to seek worship here after 911. Altars enshrine photos and mementos of survivors of that fateful day. There are numerous statues of historic figures including one of  Brigadier General Richard Montgomery who was wounded in the Battle of Quebec in 1775 (BB, p.77). The statue symbolizes the struggle for freedom and the human cost. There are simple graveyard stones where prominent New Yorkers from young America were buried. They are curious and flat with their engravings worn down. We remember this is a sacred place and stay on the path which is created within the actual graveyard. Another beautiful truth about this building is that it survived the great fire of 1776. At that time, as during 911, New Yorkers teamed together to form a bucket brigade from the river to the church protecting their beloved edifice from destruction by fire. Besides actually being this old the Chapel itself was center in much of the history of New York. It is near and dear to all. There is a constant stream of visitors in the Georgian style church.

     The World Trade site is right across from Trinity Church. We had the privilege of seeing the Freedom Tower http://www.renewnyc.com/plan_des_dev/wtc_site/new_design_plans/freedom_tower/default.asp as it is being constructed. This is another historic event in New York City. The rebuilding of the site symbolizes the resolve of democracy and the courage of it's citizens.
     We continued to Trinity Church at Wall and Broadway.The tower of this church is a high point in Manhattan and the church is done in Gothic Revival style by the architect Richard Upjohn. The church doors were modeled after the famous bronze doors by Lorenzo Ghiberti at the baptistry in Firenze, Italy (BB, p. 65). They illustrate stories from the Bible including the Angel Gabriel announcing to Mary that she was with child. They are extraordinary and done in relief. In the graveyard at Trinity Church are old tombstones that mark the burial sites of people who died as far back as 1681. A statue of Robert Fulton who was important for the steam engine is also at the graveyard as are the tombs of Alexander Hamilton and other historical figures.
     Federal Hall is where Congress met after the revolution and George Washington was sworn in as President (BB, p 69) http://www.nps.gov/feha/index.htm There are always current exhibits here. A collection of outstanding watercolors and other medium paintings of the US Coast Guard in action are on display. They are a tribute to the work that the US Coast Guard does to protect our lands.
     Descending further down into the tip of Manhattan we enter Battery Park which was named for a row of cannons that defended the original fort.  There is a large brass sphere which came from the plaza at the World Trade Center. The artist was Fritz Koenig and it originally symbolized "world peace through trade". After being damaged from debris during 911 it was reconstructed at Battery Park as a memorial to those who died (BB, p. 47). Passing Castle Clinton where tickets for the ferry to Ellis Island and The Statue of Liberty are bought, we enter the most beautiful area of the harbor. The site was originally a fort built to protect American ships from British attack before the War of 1812.
     A treat is in store as we turn north along the beautiful esplanade which has become a river walk. This is a most scenic place as we ambulate on a picturesque walkway along the Hudson River. The city has changed.It is more beautiful now. Along the way we have a wide view of the harbor. The Statue of Liberty is in full view as are Ellis Island and the New Jersey skyline. Clean wooden benches built into the concrete and surrounded by flower beds beckon those in need of repose.It is a delight to ascend to Chelsea along this
route.






      Eventually we reach the Highline which is a defunct elevated railway turned into an elevated park of unique magnitude. This is truly inspiring and we are lead uptown to the Poet's House at 10 River Terrace. There we are treated to a tour and find out about the wonderful world of poetry and writers. This is a non-profit poetry library and haven for writers. It offers a majestic view of the river and trees with a window wall. There are thousands of volumes of poetry and anyone can have their work put on the shelves. Workshops and educational workshops are offered to children to help establish the place of poets in the minds of those who otherwise would not be appreciative of this literary art. It is a way of seeing the world via a unique form of communication and expression.

     After stopping at "gentrified" Chelsea Market for lunch we head for our final destination, the crazy art galleries of Chelsea http://chelseamarket.com/  .

     The first week of each month, the exhibits change. There is some zany and some profane art. It is all meant to provoke and challenge the viewer to ask a question. Here are two portrayals of figures seen through a window of bubbling water. This is visually intriguing.

      Truly, thank you Gotham NY. This was an invigorating day! It was just what the doctor ordered!!

Spanish Harlem, El Barrio, Gantry State Park, Five Pointz

Today we explore Spanish Harlem or "El Barrio" the literal translation of which means the neighborhood.This is the area east of Park Ave. and north of 96th St. which has a large Puerto Rican and Latino population (BB, p 437).
It is a hot summer day and school is closed. We walk past an elementary school which has graffiti walls. This is legitimized because of permits and acceptance for the cultural backrounds of the students. The concept is to incorporate ethnic traditions into the educational lives of students. However, it is legal and sanctioned because one cannot randomly do graffiti on these walls. They have to go through a permit process. As we continue we are greeted by colorful Latino murals painted by Manny Vega, a local artist. His murals depict a tale with images from African and Latin folklore. These colorful murals are painted on sides of buildings and echo vibrant stories. They are bold and spontaneous adding vivid Carribean folk art to the neighborhood. There are eclectic shops and one is a remedy store with an interesting proprietor. He has a long tradition of providing the community with folk treatments and a wide selection of ritualistic herbs and assorted items.

     We have an interesting tour guide who is also a performing artist. His poetry speaks about ethnic struggles and coping with violence. There is a gang related history here. It is poignant that Julia De Burgos Latino Cultural Center has photographs which show the tragedy of gang related crime. Families and small children are shown in the midst of gang related violence. There is a boulevard named after Julia deBurgos and she is considered to be the greatest poet from Puerto Rico. She died nameless in the streets of East Harlem at the age of 39 http://www.tallerboricua.org/ 

     El Museo Del Barrio is a very interesting city museum devoted to Puerto Rican, Caribbean and Latin American culture (BB , p. 376). There is a permanent collection of traditional Caribbean and Latin American Arts. The collection was enjoyable and extensive. There were paintings, prints, wood carvings and cultural artifacts. Additionally, the museum holds community outreach programs and special events. El Museo Del Barrio is located at 1230 Fifth Ave. (104th) St.

     After eating at a local Dominican restaurant and trying oxtails we walked to The Museum of the City of New York.There is an extensive collection of the history of the city of New York from it's time as a Dutch colony to present (BB p.376). Had the city not been such an important port it probably would never developed to the point it did. Explorers found a connection from the ocean side to the great Hudson River to go very far inland. Later canals were built to connect the Hudson inland to the Great Lakes thus furthering commerce. A documentary film gives an overview of the city's growth. Many of the same issues repeat themselves in modern times. An example of this is the presence of the poor and housing needs. An important exhibit was about The Greatest Grid: The Master Plan of Manhattan, 1811-2011 http://www.mcny.org/.

This detailed the milestone history of city planning which was a great civic enterprise. It reorganized the countryside to the north into a rectangular street system stretching all the way to 155th St. This invented an urban system which was the basis for side by side buildings and walkable streets. It was logical and easy to 

navigate.  

     We enter a small garden and repose within a community site and it has a beautiful mural of two great female personas who symbolize unity within the differing Latino groups who reside in east Harlem. There is a painted "heart connection" between them which symbolizes the importance of commonality over differences. An interesting mosaic fountain is also in the garden.It has anatomical representations of female and male anatomy possibly symbolizing birth? Not really sure what to make of it. Overall, the garden was a beautiful, peaceful spot which provided tranquility  and repose.

     As we leave East Harlem we decide take the train to Queens for a visit  to The Gantry State Park and Five Pointz Graffiti Park. The Gantry waterfront provided a spectacular view of the Manhattan skyline and was very interesting. The boardwalk under the historic gantry was new and clean with jazz musicians et al.

I was happy to see Long Island City built up in this way. The old gantry was once used to offload cargo from vessels to overland vehicles. It is now a center piece around which the decking is built. Behind us are pricey apartment buildings for commuters into Manhattan. Clearly, this area has been gentrified.

     At Five Pointz there is a very unconventional site. The old warehouse has been converted into a graffitti artist's paradise. The walls are totally covered in legal graffiti and inside are large artists studios. Again, there is a process whereby artists mat participate. 

     What a nice way to end the adventure today!

West Side Uptown

THE WEST SIDE

We head uptown past the theatre district. The giant billboards engulf and stimulate us. This is a charming area filled with Broadway shows and excitement. It's a busy city day. Theatre tickets can be gotten for half price (http://tdf.org/). The street has a circus-like atmosphere as crowds interact with colorful characters.

What's the plan? Where are we going? OK, group unite. Pay attention, we are at Rockefeller Center. The Plaza and Promenade are flanked by colorful flags. There are many ways to enter Rockefeller Plaza and it is an enclave with an aura of something special and vibrant. Spectators and groups gather here and it is a must for tourists. A notable guide , pictured above, leads his group in discovering the interesting architecture.

Notice the Art Deco designs which are on the GE building. These huge stone reliefs are rendered in this style which was popular in the 1930's (BB,p 248). It is characterized by distinctive geometric curves and 

angles which echo in repetition.
More examples of Art Deco can be found by visiting the Metropolitan Museum of Art  http://www.metmuseum.org/  A major tenant of the GE building (formerly the RCA building) is NBC which is also a division of that company. A visit to their studios reveals how much they own and how much commercialism rules the media. It is important to remember that national broadcasting is often used to further the ends of private corporations who want a piece of our wallets. I have often thought that having access to powerful broadcasting tools is a privlege not the right of a few elite to further private agendas. Unfortunately, it is used in that way. The public needs to have a critical eye. So many network shows are run and controlled by the same parent company as is the case of NBC http://www.nbc.com/. It does not simply end with viewing. The purpose is to sell products and social concepts. It is a burgeoning economy and political force with strong social underpinnings. Rockefeller Plaza is also home to an ice skating rink, the famous Rainbow Room dining hotspot, and the Top of the Rock Observation Deck where panoramic views of the city can be had.

We head west for Thai lunch at Yum Yum's in Hell's Kitchen. It is one of the many ethnic restaurants along Ninth Ave. (BB, p 227) The food is 'yummy' and fresh. The coconut soup was tasty and the entree was prepared with peanut sauce. This is not heavy fare and definitely worth the culinary experience. Hell's Kitchen has an infamous history associated with mid-19th century gangs. The area is also known now as Clinton, a name which reflects the neighborhood's status of gentrification.

Out for a coconut crunch and fresh baked goods at Amy's Bakery. This store is tiny and offers unique breads,pastries, cakes and coffee. It is delightful to the palate as well as the eye.
Now, the #1 to Harlem and Morningside Heights. Harlem was named by the Dutch who originally founded it in 1658 as Nieuw Haarlem. It is located between the East and Harlem Rivers and the cliffs of Morningside Heights (BB p437). There is a long history of immigration to Harlem but ultimately it became the center for the largest community of African Americans in the US. It is the seat of Black American art, political change  and cultural renaissance. One of the most interesting aspects of Harlem is the preponderance of churches. It is from the religious communities that African American leadership emerged. The Black Americans were prevented via segregation laws from participating fully as citizens. They did not have full access to the political arena and had to struggle to attain their democratic rights. Churches were a forum where people could gather and spread ideas for change. Many African-American politicians have Reverend as their title. Examples are Rev Jesse Jackson, Rev Martin Luther King, Rev Al Sharpton, Pastor Adam Clayton Powell and the list goes on. The Abyssinian Baptist Church was an influential religious gathering place. Adam Clayton Powell Jr was the son of the Pastor and succeeded him in that role. He was the city's first black councilman and was later elected to serve in the US House of Representatives. He focused on legislation for civil rights, education, the minimum wage and segregation in the armed forces (BB, p 441).

The famous Cotton Club, Appolo Theater and the Lenox Lounge were places where black talent performed and from which their careers were launched. Historically, white people were entertained at the shows where blacks performed but were not permitted to attend. That all changed after desegregation laws were passed.

Walking further through Morningside Heights we lighted upon Columbia University and absorbed some of the educational atmosphere as we lingered on the campus. This is an old and respected University. It is known for its professional schools including Union Theological Seminary (BB, p. 427). The Teachers College, affiliated with Columbia University is the oldest American college dedicated to educating teachers.
Nearby is the magnificent Cathedral of St. John the Divine which is an Episcopal church where many social and cultural gatherings are held(BB, p.419) Many prominent parishoners attend including former US President Bill Clinton. As we continue walking through the hilly area of Morningside Heights we approach a fantastic, vibrant, larger-than-life size bronze statue of abolotionist Harriet Tubman. The artist has the figure emerging from a grass roots movement with vigor and energy. She is on a mission to free slaves and nameless people are engraved into her skirt which also bears evidence of the chains and schackles of slavery. This is a beautiful and energetic piece which is lovingly done.

For a bit of trivia and fun I got a shot of the restaurant featured in the popular comedy show, "Seinfeld".

All had a great trip to the Upper West Side. Thanks Gotham New York!

Upper East Side

                                                           UPPER EAST SIDE

Rain or shine, uptown we go! Umbrellas in hand , we trek uptown to explore the elegant Upper East Side. Our first stop is the neoclassical New York Public Library. A pair of huge, statuesque, marble lions by Edward C. Potter flank each side of the wide, open steps (BB,p 208).  These stone icons are nicknamed Patience and Fortitude by former NY Mayor Fiorello La Guardia to remind New Yorkers of these important virtues during the hard times of the Depression Era (BB,208).We are in for a treat as we step into an incomparable interior reading room and are inspired to write Haiku poetry. The Main Reading Room is extraordinarily beautiful. Hand carved vaulted wooden ceilings frame equally exquisite paintings. The walls are decorated with tall arched windows and murals which tell a story about the written word. The room itself is an architectural work of art and reflects the importance and value of the great books within.The collections were bequeathed to the public as gifts from rich men such as John Jacob Astor and Samuel J. Tilden (BB p 208).

                                                              Beauty permeates
                                                      the walls of books colors,old.
                                                         Thanks to those who scribed.

On the lighter side,kids of all ages will appreciate the "Lego" rendition of the famous library lions. These are fairly large constructions with perhaps thousands of the tiny, grey bricks.

To walk north on Fifth Ave. means that we will pass many elegant stores such as Tiffany and Co., Cartier's, Harry Winston Jewelers http://www.harrywinston.com/ and more. Rare jewels, estate finds and investor grade gems are the fare. These are "grown up toys"!

A child's version of elegant shopping is the high-end toy store, FAO Schwarz. The candy section catches my eye first.http://www.fao.com/shop/index.jsp?categoryId=3810527 FAO Schwarz is the oldest tory store in the United States. I still have my original Madame Alexander doll. She had an ice skating outfit with tiny white skates and a ballerina outfit which I just loved!  This was a high end toy at the time and is now a collector's item. Also, they sold giant, life size animals and a visit to the store with Aunts and Grandmother was always very special. In my attic is my last toy. I remember picking out a child's size porcelain tea set with rabbit designs as my Grandmother generously instructed me to pick anything I wanted. I knew I was getting older at the time and not to play with toys forever, so I picked the tea set as something more functional and that would last for the future! It is still in the original box!

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

But we digress.

 Let's think about history in New York. St. Patrick's Cathedral is  the center for the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of New York. Historically, the Cathedral represents Irish immigration to New York and its new found roots. It is the largest Catholic Cathedral in the United States and it is NeoGothic in style (BB, 254). https://www.saintpatrickscathedral.org/restore/ People from all over the world visit St. Patrick's Cathedral and it is an historical landmark. This is a most extraordinary and holy place. There are many altars devoted t saints and a huge chancel organ with 2,520 pipes (BB, 255). Mass seems to be going on all day and workers as well as visitors can attend freely.

 

I didn't realize how huge Central Park is. We could literally walk for miles, and we did do 8 miles in total. Certain paths will bring you to different points. Pass the Children's Zoo and explore 834 acres of nature and recreation (BB, p279). There is a boathouse where row boats can be rented for a leisurely afternoon. Ice skating and swimming are at Wollman Rink. Cyclists , walkers and those wishing to have a carriage ride are all part of the Central Park experience. There is a carousel which we didn't get to see. The musical clock at the Children's Zoo is a gem. Each half hour the animals circle and a nursery rhyme is played. In fact, there is so much at Central Park that it could constitute a whole day of adventure. We didn't get to Strawberry Fields of John Lennon memorium but the Bethesda Terrace and Fountain were elegant and picturesque. The statue in the center of the fountain is "Angel of the Waters (1868) by Emma Stebbins. It represents an angel conferring healaing powers on the water as in the angel from the bible who stirred the waters of the Bethesda pool in Jerusalem. It was built at a time when waters were frequently contaminated and cholera epidemics occurred . The angel was dedicated to protect the public water on the opening of the Croton Aqueduct in 

1842 (BB, p 292).

High Tea at the Plaza....... Yes, please.

and some Pop Art a la Roy Lichtenstein..........at The Met or

 what about Georgia O'Keefe?      Yes, that's better.

THE END!

BACKROADS TO BROOKLYN

Today we were tourists in Brooklyn. Hopping aboard the Q line to Coney Island we emerged from the subway to discover a vibrant amusement park on the beach. Luna Park is part of the history of American seaside recreation (BB p. 492). There were times when Coney Island fell into a state of disrepair but there is a rejuvenation of the park ( http://www.thecidc.org/). It was so clean and fun that I recommended it to my teenage daughter and her friends. They were surprised to hear that the park was up and running. The vast expanse of beachfront with pristine sand makes this place a real treat. Friends enjoyed a Nathan's hot dog while we walked along the boardwalk. Of course, of great appeal is the fact that this beach side resort can be accessed by public transportation. Coney Island appeals to children of all ages. The place has a cheesy atmosphere that promotes relaxation and our group certainly escaped the ho-hum of daily chores by perusing the maze of rides while breathing in fresh sea air. It was fun to watch as sober adults subjected themselves to the terror of the famous roller coaster Cyclone! I do not have the constitution for such rides but enjoyed watching my friends let loose. For me it about the visuals. The garish, colorful decorations and playtime atmosphere was satisfying to view while walking along the boardwalk. Distance squeals from delighted children melted into the ocean air and I felt so warm taking in all that sunshine. This was a glorious adventure and one I shall remember.

Let's get back on the train and catch the F to Jay Street. What's down there? Gasp, it's another subway! No, well let's see. As we descend we are entering an actual station turned New York Transit Museum. What fun it was to relive the history of the subways. I remember riding on those tan and hunter green woven seats.How difficult it must have been for the workers who drilled persistently to reach bedrock. This was dangerous work and many did get hurt constructing the underground subway of New York. The vintage train cars were interesting. My favorites were the old advertisements that reflect changing culture in my lifetime.

While we are here let's go to the Greek Festival, good choice. How could the others go to KFC when an authentic Greek Festival is right in front of our eyes! It was a great choice, pastries galore! Salads and Greek specialties were amazing as were the Greek grandmas who prepared the authentic food. My favorite was a home made yogurt with black cherries. I have never had anything like this before and I doubt I ever will! This was FANTASTIC!!!! Please give me the recipe. Oh, boy that was heavenly. This festival is held yearly for one week. Are we in downtown Brooklyn?

Yes, this is the posh Brooklyn Heights. What lies ahead is a walking tour of Brooklyn brownstones! We are in for another treat! Yes, this is historical and beautiful. We wind up walking along the river to the BROOKLYN BRIDGE!!! First we go through artsy Dumbo. I am so happy the waterfront is being developed. It is a good use of space for so many to enjoy. Our city is undergoing beautification through gentrification. Pricey ice cream though. Everywhere we walked ice cream was being sold!

As we approach the Brooklyn Bridge I can see the Statue of Liberty in the distance. This is a magnificent day! It is sunny and we take a rest on the grass near the artistic carousel.  There is a going green thrust here and an increase in respect for the concept of environmental sustainability (http://www.brooklynbridgepark.org/ ) What a pleasurable time we had on this walking tour of Brooklyn.

For our finale we literally walk across the bridge. At the time it was built it was the largest suspension bridge in existence (BB, p464). That was in the year 1883. This was an incredible engineering feat and many people died constructing it. This includes the genius inventor John A. Roebling, manufacturer and engineer who planned the bridge. He died from an accident during construction in which he contracted tetanus (BB, p 465).
Watch out for the mad cyclists. They are trying to prove something to the pedestrians as they mark their turf by whizzing past us in a terrifying manner. Oh well, that is the bike lane and we are in Brooklyn. Some things never change and we can't fault each other! Just don't get too close or we will get clipped.
After our group crossed the bridge was it true that we wound up at the South Street Seaport?
I can't remember. I
It's just that what goes on in SSS stays in SSS!!!
Ha Ha what a great day!!!
Thanks Gotham New York!!!
Cheers!

QUINTESSENTIAL QUEENS

Can you guess where these pieces of glass came from? Who would imagine that zipping across Queens County via the infamous Number 7 subway line would bring us into view of an historic collection of Tiffany lamps and glass. Even stranger is the fact that the location of the exhibit is in the Queens Museum of Art and is situated on the site of the 1939 and 1964 World's Fairs. An Austrian orthodontist collected the glass from the Tiffany Studios formerly located in Corona, Queens (BB p 497). Let's go a step further to realize that this site is actually a landfill created on top of a huge garbage dump (BB p. 497).

Twenty plus adventurous souls zigzagged through Queens to begin our Gotham New York experience. As we walked into the Flushing Meadows-Corona Park we had a full view of Citifield and the US Tennis Association National Tennis Center where the US open is played (http://www.atpworldtour.com/Tennis/Tournaments/US-Open.aspx).  This is a world class tennis stadium  and is named after tennis greats like Arthur Ash and Billie Jean King. People from all over the world come to these sports stadiums and we are literally a short subway ride away. It was a good feeling to finally ride the number 7 which has always mystified me. I never knew exactly where either Flushing or the number 7 were located. The infamous number 7 had been associated with subway stories told by former, giddy high school classmates using foreign accents as they joked about being flashed by perverts. Instead, the speedy train helped us to gain quick access to these amazing places and more!

Two more unique creations were inside the Queens Museum of Art. These were the panorama of New York and the topographical map of the watersheds located in New York State. This building was the New York City building of the 1939 World's Fair. I found the watershed diorama particularly interesting because it clearly depicts important state lands which are located across the road from my log cabin upstate. I was amazed and impress by this great map. A watershed is an area of land which drains water into reservoirs, rivers and lakes (http://www.dec.ny.gov/lands/26561.html). It is easier to understand how a watershed works with a visual map such as this and it is something I appreciate.

New York Panorama

The New York Panorama is an amazing architectural rendition commissioned by Robert Moses for the 1964 World's Fair (BB, p.497).


Later, our illustrious, little group of vagabonds ventured forth to the international hub known as Jackson Heights. Here we were treated to authentic Indian food at the Jackson Diner (http://www.zagat.com/ ) while we reflected on our unique journey and enjoyed our new found friends. New bonds were formed and we wondered what would be next. Could it get any better. We were part of an experiential learning process, like a 3-D movie in the making. Each snapshot of our energy charged day was beginning to unfold like a moving picture of scenes and memories. What fun we had!

Like a movie coming to life we arrived in Astoria at the Museum of the Moving Image. Here we had a taste of film productions and viewed interesting artifacts related to the movie industry.

OOOlala, this was fun. Zipping into sensory overload and history via common transit shows the power of imagination and what utilizing mundane transportation can do! Of course, it was more fun because we did it together!